How to install a Solar Panel array

After lugging my 75 pound battery between friends’ houses and work to charge it with their outlets, I began to get a little annoyed. This was not practical or efficient in any way. I figured if I was striving to live less off the grid, I was going to have to generate my own power. Considering all my options, I decided the best method to do this was with a solar panel right smack on the top of my van.. so I got to work.

Before I get started, I have to admit that I was extremely hesitant in doing this project. I have absolutely zero electrical experience, I’m not a genius, and I’m honestly not even that capable of a handyman. Regardless of who you are and what your background is, you CAN do this. It is not a difficult task at all. Just follow the instructions I lay out, do some research online, and/or email me if you have any other questions.

Requirements:

Solar panel mounted to the top of the van

Photo-voltaic (Solar) Panel – You will want an appropriate sized solar panel for your battery. The more AH (amp hours) your battery has, the more watts you want your solar panel to be. I bought a 100 watt solar panel from eBay for 300 bucks for my 75AH battery. I feel this is more than enough considering the amount of sun I get.

MPPT Charge Controller

Charge Controller – This device will sit in between the solar panel and the battery. Its purpose is to regulate the charge going to your battery so it doesn’t overcharge or damage your battery in any way. You will have two sets of negative and positive inputs/outputs that you will attach the wire to.

Mounting equipment – When you buy most solar panels, all you will get is the panel attached to a frame. You will need to purchase some kind of mounting brackets so you can attach to the frame to your mounting surface. I bought the RV flush mounts at WindSun – check out the selection: http://store.solar-electric.com/rvsopamo.html

Surface for mounting – This is an obvious one, but you will want to consider exactly where you want to mount your panel. Consider these questions: where do you park the most? Where does sun come in the most contact with your mounting surface? What obstructions could get in the way of your panel? Where will damage be minimized to your shiny, expensive panel? How will you secure your panel from thieves?

Wire – Depending on the distance between your charge controller and battery, you will have to use a certain gauge of wire in order for you to maximize the potential of energy transfer while minimizing energy loss. The charge controller you buy will usually include instructions on the length and gauge of wire to use. I used about 5 feet of wire for each connection, so 12 gauge wire would have been appropriate. Of course, I go a little overkill sometimes and this is just another one of those instances. I used 10 gauge wire just to be sure.

Solar panel wire, I'd like you to meet my friend 10AWG wire

Wire twist connectors – To fuse the wires together, you have two options. These, or electrical tape. I think these are superior because of the strong hold and level of fusion. When you stick two exposed wires inside and twist, it intertwines the copper strands extremely well.

10 AWG In-line fuse

In-line fuse – In case of overcharge, you can damage one of two things: an $200 plus deep cycle battery, or a $2 fuse. I’m not that good with math, but I choose to sacrifice the fuse in this case. You can buy the in line fuse online or at a local auto store pretty cheap, and the fuses that go inside them even cheaper. This will connect between the charge controller and the battery’s positive terminal.

Your convenient wire hook-up for battery connections

Electrical terminals – For an easy connection to the battery, you will want to buy some of these guys. You can get them online or any local home improvement store in the electrical section.

75AH Optima deep cycle nattery

Battery – A critical component of this setup, your gathered power needs some place to rest, and this will be its home. Any deep cycle marine battery will do, but in an enclosed environment, ONLY an AGM deep cycle battery will do. AGM batteries don’t emit harmful gases like wet cell batteries, since they are fully enclosed. I chose a 75 amp hour OPTIMA battery based on the devices I use and how often I use those devices. You can do more research online to find the battery that’s right for you.

Use silicone to fill the gaps unless you like water dripping on you

Waterproof silicon gel – So you have a hole through your surface where the wire is coming through, right? Well.. water and other interesting things are going to find their way through unless you block this off. Use silicon gel from your local hardware store to block off these gaps.

The magical battery-to-wall-outlet box

Power inverter – Well so far this solar setup is all great and well provided you have all DC electrical devices. In reality, most of our devices require AC power. A power inverter converts DC power into what most of us attribute to usable (AC) power. All the plugs in U.S. households are AC jacks, so you will feel right at home once you acquire a power inverter.

Sources of Wisdom and Knowledge:

http://www.windsun.com/

http://www.google.com

My hope is that this guide will help others put together their own solar panel arrays. Even though solar systems are a new technology, with the right tools and knowledge, you can have a sun-powered electrical system of your very own with relative ease. Good luck and enjoy!

-Eddie

http://www.windsun.